We have just returned from the Premier
Vision fabric show in Paris where we reviewed the new fabrics for Fall/Autumn
2015.
We also spent time shopping the European
market for trend in the shirting and knit market.
I wanted to share with you all what we
found to be trending in fabric and design for the upcoming season in the
category of CASUAL SHIRTINGS.
I will begin with the color palette that
seemed to be consistent throughout the booths that we visited. We will be
incorporating these colors in our new collection of Knits and Woven's.
They include the following pantone colors:
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Overall, colors were in much darker tones
then in previous Fall seasons.
We visited over 42 textile companies that
specialized in mens woven fabrics. The largest presence were from Italy and
Turkey, as well as a few new players from Japan and Austria.
We thoroughly covered the market and were
able to see all that was offered by the top mens fabric suppliers.
I will provide a brief detail on what were
the hot, trending fabrics that will have a large presence on the floors for
Fall 2015 season.
1) Denim/Indigo shirtings: Indigo shirtings
were saturated throughout the market. They were done in a wide range of
archival weaves, textures of waffle and pique construction, prints and surface
patterns. They were presented with various dye techniques and washes.
Everything from distressed to simple light soft garment washes. It was all
about the engraved texture and finishing that made this category so unique and
interesting. Indigo shirtings have moved up to be a major player in the
menswear business.
2) Miniature Fancies: These included tone
on tone solids with elaborate patterns of small Dobbie's and diamond shapes.
They were done primarily on Chambray and fine cotton, in a variety of indigo
palettes. it was all about the texture.
Dobbie's were dominating the shirting choices.
3) Faded mini checks: These were shown in darker multi color tones
with warm finishes.
4) Double Faced : Unlike other seasons,
these were not your typical double faced cotton fabric. These were much more
interesting. There were many variations that included assemblies of plains on
one side and fancies on the other. Also, variations of bonding two completely
different fabric constructions. Example: Flannel with Denim, Oxford with
Prints. They have taken advantage of offering qualities of two textiles instead
of one. I believe that when these hit the retail market our customer will see
great value in shirtings made in this concept.
5) Prints: There was still an overall
presence of prints in the market but the prints are not as clean or as bold as
the previous Fall/Spring 2014. The prints that stood out and were catching the
designers eye, were done in very dense tones. They were also very small. There
were a large variety of ditsy florals being used for contrast detail. Again,
very small compact patterns.
As for styling and design concepts, I
believe that mens shirtings has never looked better or offered more options in
regard to fabrics.
The textiles boast a variety of patterns,
shapes and textures. There are also a variety of soft washes and dyes being
applied to more dressy mens fabrics such as Jacquard.
We will see things that are different and
new in the market applied to mens shirtings. There are modern updates to
stripes and checks that give a new fresh look.
Many new things are being done to pipings
such as printed designs and tapings created from mens silk ties.
I see the casual classification making a
big statement in the upcoming Fall season.
In the casual knitwear market, heavy slub's
and knits mixed with woven trims dominate. There are many new things going on
with washed Tencel blends. Lots of Pique and Waffle patterns with washes applied
that give slight irregularities.
Also, double faced fabrications mixing
fleece with fine rib.
I look forward to working with you on the
FALL 2015 season.
I will begin receiving fabrics within the
next two weeks and would like to bring you a highlighted collection on the
market trends i have discussed.
This will ensure that we will be current
and up to date with the Mens casual market for the season.
We appreciate you trusting Age of Wisdom to
assist in creating your menswear offerings.
Desinger
Age Of Wisdom
Allison Basile
